In short, no: a face oil cannot completely replace a traditional moisturiser for the vast majority of skin types. While oils are excellent at providing emolliency and occlusivity, they lack the humectant components essential for true hydration. A high-quality moisturiser is typically an emulsion of water, humectants (like glycerin or hyaluronic acid), and lipids. The humectants draw water into the stratum corneum, while the lipids seal it in. Because face oils are anhydrous (water-free), they can only soften the skin and prevent water loss, but they cannot add water back into the skin cells [1].
For the best results in the harsh Australian climate, relying solely on an oil can lead to sub-clinical dehydration. Over time, the skin may become 'tricked' into feeling smooth due to the surface oil, while the underlying layers suffer from a lack of water, potentially compromising the skin barrier function [2]. For an optimal routine, an oil should be viewed as a supplement to lock in the hydration provided by a water-based moisturiser or serum, rather than a standalone replacement [3].
From a formulation science perspective, the skin requires three types of agents to maintain homeostasis: humectants, emollients, and occlusives. Humectants attract water from the dermis or atmosphere; emollients smooth the skin by filling gaps between desquamating corneocytes; and occlusives create a hydrophobic barrier to minimise transepidermal water loss (TEWL) [1][4].
Face oils primarily function as emollients and weak-to-moderate occlusives. While they are rich in essential fatty acids and antioxidants, they lack the ability to bind water molecules. Clinical studies indicate that a balanced emulsion (O/W or W/O) is superior for maintaining barrier integrity and enzymatic processes within the skin, such as desquamation, which requires specific hydration levels to function correctly [2][5].
For those looking to achieve this essential balance of hydration and protection, a formulation like our Cellular Crème provides the necessary humectants and lipids to seal in moisture effectively. To further enhance your evening ritual, you might consider layering a few drops of Solenne Oil over your moisturiser, as its Bakuchiol-infused botanical blend is designed to support overnight renewal while providing the emollient finish that a water-based cream alone cannot offer.
FAQ
Can people with oily skin use face oils instead of moisturiser?
Even for oily skin, a face oil is rarely a complete substitute. Oily skin often suffers from dehydration (lack of water) rather than a lack of oil (sebum). Using a lightweight, humectant-rich gel moisturiser is often the best approach to balance sebum production. However, certain oils high in linoleic acid can help regulate sebum quality, but they should still be applied over a hydrating base to ensure the skin remains hydrated, not just lubricated [3][6].
When is the best time to apply a face oil in a routine?
To optimise product efficacy, face oils should be applied as the final step in a skincare routine or mixed into a moisturiser. Because oils are occlusive, applying them before water-based serums or moisturisers can prevent those hydrating ingredients from penetrating the skin effectively [4][5].
Are there any exceptions where an oil is enough?
The only exception might be individuals with an exceptionally resilient skin barrier living in high-humidity environments where the air provides sufficient ambient moisture. However, for most Australians exposed to air conditioning and high UV radiation, the lack of humectants in a pure oil routine will eventually lead to increased fine lines and loss of elasticity due to TEWL [1][2].
References:
[1] Sethi A, et al. Indian Journal of Dermatology. 2016;61(3):279-287. doi:10.4103/0019-5154.182427
[2] Rawlings AV, et al. Dermatologic Therapy. 2004;17 Suppl 1:43-48. doi:10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1005.x
[3] Downing DT, et al. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 1987;88(3 Suppl):2s-6s. doi:10.1111/1523-1747.ep12468850
[4] Ghadially R, et al. Archives of Dermatology. 1995;131(4):409-414. doi:10.1001/archderm.1995.01690160033005
[5] Pappas A. Dermato-Endocrinology. 2009;1(2):72-76. doi:10.4161/derm.1.2.7811
[6] Loden M. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology. 2003;4(11):771-788. doi:10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005
