In short, a facial oil can serve as your final step, but it is rarely a functional replacement for a heavy cream because they serve fundamentally different physiological roles. Facial oils are primarily emollient and occlusive, meaning they soften the skin and provide a physical barrier to prevent water loss. However, they lack the humectant components—such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or urea—found in creams that actively draw water into the stratum corneum [1]. If your skin is adequately hydrated from previous layers, an oil can 'seal' that moisture in; however, using oil alone on dry skin may leave the deeper layers dehydrated while the surface appears shiny [2].
For those with oily or acne-prone skin types, substituting a heavy cream with a lightweight, linoleic acid-rich oil (like rosehip or grapeseed) may prevent the 'heavy' feeling of traditional occlusive creams while still supporting barrier function [3]. Conversely, for those with extremely dry skin or a compromised barrier, an oil lacks the necessary 3:1:1 ratio of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids often found in therapeutic moisturisers required to repair the lipid bilayer [4]. Therefore, the suitability of this switch depends entirely on your specific skin lipid profile and the climate.
The efficacy of topical applications relies on the balance of three moisturising components: humectants, emollients, and occlusives. Creams are typically emulsions—a mixture of water and oil stabilised by emulsifiers—which allow them to deliver both water-binding agents and lipids simultaneously [1]. Facial oils, being anhydrous (waterless), are purely lipid-based and interact primarily with the skin's sebum and intercellular lipid matrix.
From a formulation science perspective, the molecular weight and fatty acid composition of the oil dictate its penetration and occlusion levels. Saturated fats like coconut oil provide high occlusion but may be comedogenic, whereas polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) integrate into the skin barrier to improve fluidity and reduce inflammation [5]. Understanding these interactions is vital for maintaining the Acid Mantle, a slightly acidic film on the skin's surface that acts as the primary defence against pathogens and environmental stressors.
For those looking to integrate these benefits without compromising on essential humectants, our Solenne Oil uses a base of jojoba and bakuchiol to support overnight renewal while mimicking the skin’s natural lipid structure. To ensure a complete moisture profile, this can be layered over a formula like Cellular Crème, which provides the sodium hyaluronate and targeted peptides necessary to draw hydration deep into the skin before the oil seals the barrier.
FAQ
Can you mix facial oil directly into your moisturiser?
Yes, mixing a few drops of oil into your moisturiser can enhance its emollient properties and 'boost' the lipid content for drier Australian winters [2]. However, this can sometimes destabilise the preservative system or the emulsion of the cream if done in a separate container, so it is best to mix the two in your palm immediately before application [6].
Does facial oil penetrate through moisturiser?
Most facial oils have larger molecular structures or higher occlusive properties, meaning they are best applied over a moisturiser or mixed into it. If applied before a water-based cream, the oil may create a hydrophobic barrier that prevents the humectants in the cream from reaching the skin cells effectively [4]. Applying oil as the final step ensures it 'seals' the preceding hydrating layers [7].
Which oils are best for oily or acne-prone skin?
Individuals with acne-prone skin often have lower levels of linoleic acid in their sebum. Research suggests that topical application of oils high in linoleic acid, such as safflower or hemp seed oil, can help regulate sebum quality and reduce comedone formation [3][5]. Avoiding highly occlusive or high-oleic oils like olive oil is recommended for these skin types to prevent pore blockages.
References:
[1] Sethi A, et al. Indian Journal of Dermatology. 2016;61(3):279-287. doi:10.4103/0019-5154.182427
[2] Draelos ZD. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2018;17(2):136-142. doi:10.1111/jocd.12490
[3] Downing DT, et al. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 1986;86(4):488-491. doi:10.1111/1523-1747.ep12285650
[4] Mao-Qiang M, et al. Archives of Dermatology. 1993;129(6):728-738. doi:10.1001/archderm.1993.01680270066008
[5] Vaughn AR, et al. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology. 2018;19(1):49-55. doi:10.1007/s40257-017-0301-1
[6] Patzelt A, et al. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. 2012;25(3):117-124. doi:10.1159/000334863
[7] Rawlings AV, et al. Dermatologic Therapy. 2004;17 Suppl 1:49-56. doi:10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1005.x
