To start using retinol with the best outcomes and minimal irritation, the most effective method is the 'low and slow' approach. This involves selecting a low-concentration stabilised retinol (0.1% to 0.3%) or a retinaldehyde derivative, which requires fewer enzymatic conversions within the skin to become active retinoic acid [1]. Clinical evidence suggests that beginning application just twice a week for the first fortnight, then increasing to every second night, allows the skin's retinoid receptors to upregulate without overwhelming the epidermal barrier [2].
Furthermore, the 'sandwich technique' is considered the best preventative measure against desquamation (peeling) and erythema. This involves applying a thin layer of a ceramide-rich moisturiser, followed by the retinol, and then another layer of moisturiser [3]. This method buffers the penetration rate of the active ingredient, ensuring the skin barrier remains intact while the retinoid stimulates cellular turnover and collagen synthesis in the deeper dermal layers [4]. Consistent use of a TGA-approved broad-spectrum SPF 50+ during the day is non-negotiable, as retinoids increase photosensitivity by thinning the stratum corneum during the initial phases of use [1].
Retinoids, derivatives of Vitamin A, are the gold standard in topical anti-ageing due to their ability to bind to nuclear retinoic acid receptors (RARs) and retinoid X receptors (RXRs). This binding regulates gene expression involved in cellular proliferation, epidermal differentiation, and the inhibition of matrix metalloproteinases that degrade collagen [5]. However, the 'retinoid reaction'—characterised by redness and peeling—is a common side effect caused by a rapid increase in epidermal cell turnover before the skin has matured its lipid barrier to compensate.
From a biochemical perspective, the irritation occurs because the skin's natural reservoirs of retinoic acid are suddenly boosted, leading to a transient release of pro-inflammatory cytokines like IL-1 and TNF-alpha [2]. By controlling the delivery system—such as through encapsulated retinol or polymer-based vehicles—formulators can achieve a sustained release that avoids the 'peak' concentration levels associated with acute irritation [6]. Australian clinicians emphasise the importance of maintaining the acid mantle during this transition to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
For those navigating the initial stages of retinoid use, supporting the skin’s natural defence system with a resilient barrier is essential to minimise potential dryness. You may find that integrating a specialised moisturiser like Balance Biome Crème helps to maintain a balanced complexion, as its inclusion of Bifida Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide works to soothe and support the microbiome during the adjustment period. To further safeguard against irritation, beginning your routine with a non-stripping, ceramide-rich cleanser such as Surface Calm ensures you are gently purifying the skin without compromising its delicate moisture seal.
FAQ
Which form of retinol is best for sensitive Australian skin?
For those with sensitive skin or living in the harsh Australian climate, encapsulated retinol or retinaldehyde is best. Retinaldehyde is one step closer to retinoic acid than retinol, meaning it is more potent but often better tolerated because it undergoes a more controlled conversion process within the keratinocytes [4]. Encapsulation technology allows for a slow-release delivery, minimising the immediate inflammatory response often seen with pure liquid retinol [6].
Can I use vitamin C and retinol together?
It is best to separate these actives to avoid compromising the skin barrier. Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) typically requires a low pH (<3.5) for optimal penetration, whereas retinol functions best at a neutral pH (~5.5 to 6.0) [1]. Use Vitamin C in the morning to provide antioxidant defence against UV-induced free radicals and reserve retinol for evening use to support overnight repair and avoid photochemical instability [5].
How long does the 'retinisation' period last?
The retinisation period, where the skin adjusts to the increase in Vitamin A, typically lasts between four to six weeks [2]. During this time, the skin may feel tighter or slightly dry. If peeling persists beyond two months, it is best to reduce the frequency of application or switch to a lower concentration to prevent chronic inflammation and potential barrier damage [3].
References:
[1] Mukherjee S, et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging. 2006;1(4):327-348. doi:10.2147/cia.2006.1.4.327
[2] Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatologii i Alergologii. 2019;36(4):392-397. doi:10.5114/ada.2019.87443
[3] Del Rosso JQ. The use of moisturizers in the management of skin conditions. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 2013;6(12):12-16.
[4] Peffault de Latour R, et al. Topical Retinaldehyde on Skin Ageing. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2018;17(6):1002-1010. doi:10.1111/jocd.12782
[5] Shao Y, et al. Molecular basis of retinol anti-aging properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2017;39(1):56-65. doi:10.1111/ics.12348
[6] Kim BH, et al. Improved skin delivery of retinol via lipid-based nanocarriers. Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation. 2021;51(2):145-155. doi:10.1007/s40005-020-00508-y
