To effectively stop your face from getting excessively oily, the best approach involves a combination of topical sebum-regulating agents and strategic cleansing. The gold standard for immediate and long-term control is the incorporation of Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and Salicylic Acid (BHA). Niacinamide works by reducing the total sebum excretion rate (SER) over time, while Salicylic Acid, being lipophilic, penetrates the sebaceous unit to dissolve the glue-like lipids that contribute to shine and congestion [1]. Additionally, choosing a 'gel-to-foam' cleanser helps remove excess surface lipids without triggering reactive seborrhoea, which occurs when the skin is over-stripped of its natural barrier [2].
Optimising your moisturiser choice is equally critical. Even oily skin requires hydration to maintain its permeability barrier; however, you should favour oil-free, non-comedogenic humectants like hyaluronic acid or glycerine over occlusive oils. Incorporating a mattifying primer or sunscreen containing silica or starch derivatives can also provide a physical absorbent effect, trapping sebum as it is secreted throughout the day [3]. For persistent cases, consulting a professional for prescription-strength retinoids can help shrink the sebaceous glands themselves, providing a more permanent reduction in oiliness [4].
Oily skin, clinically referred to as seborrhoea, is primarily driven by the overactivity of sebaceous glands, which are found in their highest density on the face, scalp, and chest. Sebum production is regulated by androgens, specifically dihydrotestosterone (DHT), which binds to receptors within the sebocyte to stimulate lipid synthesis [1]. Environmental factors common in the Australian climate, such as high humidity and UV exposure, can further exacerbate the perception of oiliness by increasing sweat production and altering the viscosity of surface lipids [5].
From a biochemical perspective, the goal of a skincare routine is not to eliminate sebum entirely—as it provides essential antioxidant vitamin E and antimicrobial protection—but to balance the Sebum Excretion Rate (SER). Modern formulation science focuses on inhibiting the 5-alpha-reductase enzyme, which is responsible for converting testosterone into the more potent DHT within the skin, thereby addressing the root cause of excessive oil production rather than just the surface symptoms [2][4].
For those seeking to refine their daily ritual, Surface Purify is formulated with Salicylic Acid to gently dissolve congestion and clarify the pores without compromising the skin's integrity. To further support a balanced complexion, some of our customers find that following with Balance Biome Crème helps stabilise the skin, as it includes Niacinamide to help minimise the appearance of midday shine while reinforcing the natural barrier.
FAQ
Can using a moisturiser actually make my skin less oily?
Yes, using the right type of moisturiser can help regulate oil production. When the skin's barrier is compromised due to dehydration or harsh cleansing, it may produce more oil as a compensatory mechanism to prevent trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) [2]. By using a lightweight, water-based moisturiser, you support the barrier function, which can signal the sebaceous glands to slow down production [3].
Does diet influence how oily my face gets during the day?
Clinical evidence suggests that diets with a high glycaemic index (GI) can spike insulin levels, which in turn increases insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1). High levels of IGF-1 are linked to increased sebum production and the development of acne [6]. Reducing high-GI foods and dairy may help some individuals manage systemic drivers of oiliness [1].
Why does my skin feel oilier in the afternoon?
This is due to the natural circadian rhythm of sebum secretion. Research indicates that sebum excretion rates typically peak between midday and early afternoon [5]. Additionally, as the day progresses, environmental humidity and the breakdown of makeup or sunscreen can mix with sebum, making the skin appear shinier than it does in the morning [3].
References:
[1] Draelos ZD, et al. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy. 2006;8(2):96-101. doi:10.1080/14764170600712486.
[2] Sakuma K, et al. Relationship between facial sebum and the skin barrier. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. 2012;25(3):145-151. doi:10.1159/000335804.
[3] Levin J, et al. How much do we really know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients? The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 2010;3(2):22-41.
[4] Endly DC, et al. Oily Skin: A Review of Treatment Options. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 2017;10(8):49-55.
[5] Pappas A. The relationship of diet and acne. Dermato-Endocrinology. 2009;1(5):262-267. doi:10.4161/derm.1.5.10192.
[6] Smith RN, et al. A low-glycemic-load diet improves symptoms in acne vulgaris patients: a randomized controlled trial. American Journal of Clinical Nutrition. 2007;86(1):107-115. doi:10.1093/ajcn/86.1.107.
