Controlling oily skin requires a dual-pronged approach: regulating the activity of the sebocytes within the sebaceous glands and effectively managing the surface lipids without impairing the skin's barrier function. Clinical evidence suggests that incorporating lipophilic hydroxy acids, specifically salicylic acid (BHA), is essential as it penetrates the pore to dissolve excess sebum and cellular debris [1]. This prevents the formation of comedones and reduces the visible 'shine' associated with high sebum excretion rates (SER). Additionally, topically applied niacinamide (Vitamin B3) at concentrations between 2% and 5% has been shown to significantly reduce sebum production by modulating the lipid synthesis pathway, providing a non-invasive method for long-term oil regulation [2].
Furthermore, the use of targeted topical retinoids can assist in reorganising the follicular epithelium, ensuring that sebum can flow freely to the surface rather than becoming trapped and oxidised. It is a common misconception that oily skin does not require hydration; however, the use of lightweight, non-comedogenic humectants like hyaluronic acid or glycerine is crucial. Maintaining adequate stratum corneum hydration prevents 'reactive seborrhoea', a phenomenon where the skin may increase oil production in response to an impaired barrier or excessive desiccation from harsh foaming cleansers [3]. Optimising the skin's pH with mildly acidic formulations also helps maintain a healthy microbiome, further stabilising the sebum profile [4].
Sebum is a complex mixture of triglycerides, wax esters, squalene, and free fatty acids produced by the sebaceous glands. While sebum is vital for maintaining the skin's antimicrobial defence and antioxidant transport (notably Vitamin E), an overproduction—known as seborrhoea—is often driven by androgens, specifically dihydrotestosterone (DHT) [1]. In a dermatological context, the size and activity of these glands are genetically determined but can be influenced by hormonal fluctuations, diet, and environmental stressors.
The pathophysiology of oily skin often involves the up-regulation of the 5-alpha-reductase enzyme, which converts testosterone into DHT within the skin. This hormonal trigger stimulates sebocyte proliferation and lipid production. From a formulation science perspective, controlling this process involves the use of ingredients that either inhibit this enzymatic conversion or chemically absorb excess lipids on the stratum corneum surface through porous minerals like perlite or silica [5].
For those looking to refine a congested complexion, our Surface Purify cleanser was formulated with salicylic acid to help clear the pores of excess debris while maintaining a calm, balanced surface. To support this process without adding weight, many of our customers find that pairing a targeted cleanse with a lightweight moisturiser like Balance Biome Crème helps to nourish the skin’s microbiome and minimise the appearance of oil-induced shine.
FAQ
Can diet influence how much oil my skin produces?
Yes, emerging evidence suggests a strong link between high-glycaemic index diets and increased sebum production. High-GI foods trigger a spike in serum insulin and insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1), which stimulates androgen synthesis and sebocyte lipogenesis [1]. Reducing the intake of refined sugars may help in stabilising oil levels [6].
Why does my skin get oilier in summer?
Sebum excretion rates are known to increase with rising ambient temperatures. Scientific studies indicate that for every 1°C increase in skin temperature, the sebum excretion rate can rise by approximately 10% [4]. This is often exacerbated by high humidity, which prevents sebum from spreading evenly, leading to a heavier 'greasy' sensation [5].
Is it possible to 'over-cleanse' oily skin?
Absolutely. Using aggressive surfactants like Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) can strip the essential structural lipids of the skin barrier. When the barrier is compromised, it can lead to inflammation and a paradoxical increase in oiliness as the skin attempts to compensate for the loss of moisture, a state often referred to as 'surface-dehydrated oily skin' [3].
References:
[1] Endly DC, Miller RA. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 2017;10(8):49-55. PMCID: PMC5605215.
[2] Draelos ZD, et al. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy. 2006;8(2):96-101. doi:10.1080/14764170600717704.
[3] Del Rosso JQ, Levin J. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 2011;4(5):22-55. PMID: 21607198.
[4] Kunizawa N, et al. Journal of Dermatological Science. 2021;102(1):25-33. doi:10.1016/j.jdermsci.2021.01.006.
[5] Sakamoto K, et al. Cosmetic Science and Technology. 2017;11(2):405-419. doi:10.1016/B978-0-12-802005-0.00025-1.
[6] Pappas A. Dermato-endocrinology. 2009;1(2):77-86. doi:10.4161/derm.1.2.7847.
Medical Disclaimer: This article is for educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult a qualified healthcare professional before starting any new skincare regimen. Content reviewed by a biomedical scientist.
