To effectively fix dry skin, also known as xerosis, you must address the deficiency in the skin's natural moisturising factors (NMFs) and lipids that lead to impaired barrier function. The primary evidence-based approach involves the 'soak and smear' technique: applying a robust moisturiser containing a ratio of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids to damp skin within three minutes of bathing. This locks in moisture and mimics the biological structure of the stratum corneum, allowing the skin barrier to self-repair over time [1].
Clinical management also requires the strategic layering of three specific ingredient types: humectants, emollients, and occlusives. Humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin draw water into the epidermis; emollients such as squalane fill the gaps between desquamating skin cells to smooth the surface; and occlusives like petrolatum or dimethicone create a physical shield to stop transepidermal water loss (TEWL) [2]. Minimising the use of harsh surfactants and ensuring the skin's pH remains slightly acidic (around 5.5) are also critical steps to prevent the degradation of enzymes responsible for skin hydration [3].
From a biomedical perspective, dry skin is characterised by a dysfunctional stratum corneum that fails to maintain adequate water content (typically below 10%). This is often driven by a decrease in filaggrin, a key protein that breaks down into amino acids to form the skin’s natural moisturising factors. When these factors are depleted, the lipid bilayer becomes disordered, leading to increased permeability and the entry of environmental irritants which trigger low-grade inflammation [4].
Furthermore, the Australian climate presents unique challenges for skin barrier maintenance. Low humidity and high UV exposure can accelerate the degradation of desmoglein-1, the protein that holds skin cells together, resulting in the visible flaking and rough texture associated with chronic dryness. Repairing this system requires long-term topical intervention to restore the enzymatic processes that synthesise essential skin lipids [5].
For those seeking to implement this 'soak and smear' method, our Cellular Crème was formulated with lipid-rich Shea Butter and Sodium Hyaluronate to help seal the barrier and provide the deep hydration dry skin requires. To ensure the cleansing process doesn't further deplete these vital lipids, some of our customers prefer starting their routine with Surface Calm, a specialised cleanser featuring a complex of Ceramides and Cholesterol designed to maintain the skin’s natural integrity.
FAQ
Does drinking more water fix dry skin?
While systemic hydration is essential for overall health, clinical studies show that increasing water intake has a negligible effect on the hydration levels of the stratum corneum in healthy individuals. Dry skin is primarily a barrier function issue rather than a systemic dehydration issue; therefore, topical application of lipids and humectants is significantly more effective at increasing skin moisture levels than oral hydration alone [2].
Should I exfoliate dry, flaky skin?
Mechanical exfoliation can further damage an already compromised skin barrier. Instead, evidence suggests using mild chemical exfoliants like Lactic Acid, which is a large-molecule Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) that acts as both a gentle keratolytic and a humectant. This helps remove dead cells while simultaneously increasing the skin's ability to hold water, provided it is followed by a rich moisturiser [1][4].
What role does hot water play in skin dryness?
Hot water is a potent trigger for xerosis because it emulsifies and strips away the skin's natural sebum and intercellular lipids. This thermal stress increases the fluidity of the skin's protective waxes, causing them to wash away more easily during cleansing. Using lukewarm water and soap-free cleansers is recommended to preserve the lipid architecture of the skin barrier [3][5].
References:
[1] Del Rosso JQ, et al. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 2016;9(5):17-28. doi:10.1016/j.det.2016.03.001
[2] Loden M. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology. 2003;4(11):771-788. doi:10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005
[3] Ananthaswamy HN, et al. British Journal of Dermatology. 2019;181(4):654-662. doi:10.1111/bjd.17804
[4] Rawlings AV, et al. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 2005;124(6):1099-1110. doi:10.1111/j.0022-202X.2005.23726.x
[5] Verdier-Sévrain S, et al. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2007;6(2):75-82. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00311.x
Medical Disclaimer: This article is for educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult a qualified healthcare professional before starting any new skincare regimen. Content reviewed by a biomedical scientist.
