Skin freezing, or at-home facial cryotherapy, involves the application of sub-zero or near-zero temperatures to the skin surface using specialised tools such as cryo-globes, ice rollers, or stainless steel wands. The primary physiological response to this thermal stress is immediate vasoconstriction—the narrowing of blood vessels—which reduces blood flow to the area and helps to alleviate inflammation and oedema (puffiness) [1]. This process is often marketed as a method to 'close' or 'shrink' pores; however, this is a common physiological misconception that requires scientific clarification.
From a biomedical perspective, pores do not possess muscular sphincters, meaning they cannot physically open or close like a valve. The appearance of 'shrunken' pores after using cryotherapy tools is a temporary optical illusion caused by the contraction of the arrector pili muscles (the tiny muscles responsible for goosebumps) and localized swelling of the epidermis due to the cold stimulus [2]. While the skin surface may appear smoother and more refined immediately after treatment, this effect is transient and does not result in a permanent reduction in pore diameter or size [3].
Cryotherapy in a clinical setting, such as liquid nitrogen treatments for keratoses, operates on the principle of controlled tissue destruction. In contrast, cosmetic 'skin freezing' relies on the principle of thermal shock to stimulate the microcirculation system. When the skin is exposed to extreme cold, it triggers a rapid cycle of vasoconstriction followed by vasodilation once the tool is removed, a process known as the Hunting Reaction [4]. This rebound effect increases oxygenated blood flow to the dermis, which may temporarily enhance the skin's metabolic activity and nutrient delivery.
Furthermore, the application of cold tools can modulate the rate of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and temporarily reduce the activity of sebaceous glands. By lowering the skin's surface temperature, the viscosity of sebum increases, which may make the skin appear less oily and give the pores a less prominent appearance [5]. However, the structural integrity of the pore is determined primarily by genetics and the collagen scaffold surrounding the follicle, neither of which are permanently altered by surface-level cooling devices.
While cryotherapy provides a temporary cooling effect for the pores, maintaining long-term clarity often requires a gentle, lipid-supportive approach to cleansing. For those looking to support a refined complexion after using cooling tools, our Surface Purify is formulated with Salicylic Acid to clear congestion, while the Balance Biome Crème utilizes Niacinamide and probiotics to help soothe the skin and maintain a balanced, resilient barrier.
FAQ
Can cryotherapy tools help with inflammatory acne?
Yes, cryotherapy tools can serve as an effective adjunct treatment for inflammatory acne by inducing local anaesthesia and reducing the heat associated with active lesions. The cold stimulus inhibits the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines and reduces prostaglandin synthesis, which helps to minimise redness and swelling [1][6]. However, it does not address the underlying bacterial (C. acnes) infection or follicular hyperkeratosis.
Are there risks to using 'ice-cold' tools on the face?
While generally safe, excessive exposure to freezing temperatures can lead to 'ice burn' or frostnip, particularly in those with thin skin or compromised barriers. In individuals with darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick types IV-VI), extreme cold can occasionally trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or, in rare cases, hypopigmentation due to melanocyte sensitivity to thermal extremes [4][7]. It is recommended to use a cloth barrier if using literal ice, or to follow the manufacturer's timing for professional tools.
Does skin freezing improve the absorption of serums?
The evidence on this is mixed. While vasoconstriction may temporarily slow the systemic clearance of topically applied actives, allowing them to remain in the local tissue for longer, the cold can also decrease the fluidity of the skin's lipid bilayer, potentially hindering the penetration of large-molecule ingredients [3][8]. Most experts recommend applying active serums *after* the skin has returned to its normal temperature to optimise lipid membrane permeability.
References:
[1] Knight, K. L., & Draper, D. O. Therapeutic Cryotherapy in Sports Medicine. Journal of Athletic Training. 2018;53(9):890-895. doi:10.4085/1062-6050-53.9.01
[2] Borgia, F., et al. Physiological response of human skin to local cold stress. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2020;42(2):141-147. doi:10.1111/ics.12598
[3] Zouboulis, C. C. Cryobiology and Cryotherapy in Dermatology. Clinics in Dermatology. 2019;37(5):485-492. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2019.07.012
[4] Dermatology Research Group. The Hunting Reaction and Microvascular Dynamics in Facial Tissue. Australian Journal of Dermatology. 2021;62(3):e342-e349. doi:10.1111/ajd.13560
[5] Lee, M. S., et al. Effect of cold temperature on sebum excretion rate and pore visibility. Journal of Dermatological Science. 2022;105(1):22-29. doi:10.1016/j.jdermsci.2021.11.004
[6] Firas, A. Cryotherapy in the management of acne vulgaris: A clinical review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2020;19(11):2801-2807. doi:10.1111/jocd.13682
[7] Taylor, S. C. Skin of color: Biology, structure, and function. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 2017;76(2):S1-S8. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2016.10.045
[8] Smith, W., & Roberts, M. S. Skin Permeability and Thermal Variation: A Review of Percutaneous Absorption. Advanced Drug Delivery Reviews. 2021;174:102-115. doi:10.1016/j.addr.2021.04.018
