Breakouts around your period are primarily driven by the dramatic fluctuation of progesterone and estrogen levels during the luteal phase of your menstrual cycle. About a week before menstruation begins, estrogen and progesterone levels drop. This drop signals the sebaceous glands to increase sebum (oil) production. Simultaneously, relative levels of testosterone, which remain more stable throughout the cycle, become more dominant, further stimulating the oil glands and leading to clogged pores [1][2].
Beyond oil production, the skin's physical structure changes mid-cycle. Progesterone spikes before your period can cause skin swelling, which may physically compress the pore opening. This 'trapping' effect creates an anaerobic environment where Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) bacteria thrive, resulting in the characteristic inflammatory papules and pustules often found along the jawline and chin just before or during your flow [3].
Cyclical acne is a manifestation of the endocrine system's direct influence on the pilosebaceous unit. The sebaceous glands contain receptors for androgens, and when the ratio of androgens to estrogens increases during the late luteal phase, sebum composition actually shifts, becoming more comedogenic. This process is often exacerbated by cyclical increases in pro-inflammatory cytokines, which lower the threshold for skin irritation and acne lesion formation.
Clinically, this is referred to as 'premenstrual flare,' affecting approximately 60-70% of acne-prone women. While the hormonal triggers are internal, the systemic inflammation and changes in the skin barrier's lipid composition during this phase make the skin more vulnerable to external triggers, making a consistent, evidence-based topical routine essential for management [1].
For those looking to manage the shift in oil production during this phase, Surface Purify was formulated with Salicylic Acid and Bakuchiol to help clear congestion and clarify the pores without stripping the skin. Following this with a microbiome-supporting moisturiser like Balance Biome Crème can help maintain a resilient barrier and a balanced complexion when your hormones are in flux.
FAQ
What is the best ingredient to treat period-related breakouts?
Salicylic acid (BHA) is highly effective because it is lipophilic, meaning it can dissolve in the increased oil produced during the luteal phase to clear deep-seated debris. Additionally, using benzoyl peroxide can target the C. acne bacteria that multiply when pores become compressed by cyclical skin swelling [2].
Why do period breakouts usually happen on the chin and jawline?
The sebaceous glands in the lower third of the face—specifically the chin and jawline—have a higher density of androgen receptors. Consequently, these areas are more sensitive to the relative rise in testosterone levels that occurs right before your period begins.
Does diet affect hormonal acne during my cycle?
High-glycemic index foods and dairy have been shown in some studies to increase insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1), which can further stimulate sebum production. During the premenstrual phase, when oil production is already high, these dietary factors may exacerbate the severity of breakouts.
References:
[1] Gollnick H, Krautheim A. Topical treatment of acne vulgaris. J Dtsch Dermatol Ges. 2021;19(1):9-14. doi:10.1111/ddg.14250
[2] Lucky AW. Hormonal acnes: The role of androgens and their antagonists. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2018;31(2):100-104. doi:10.1159/000486041
[3] Zaenglein AL, Graber GB, Thiboutot DM, et al. Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2016;74(5):945-973.e33. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2015.12.037
Medical Disclaimer: This article is for educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult a qualified healthcare professional before starting any new skincare regimen. Content reviewed by a biomedical scientist.
